81. Independence Day

Today is 100 years since the 13^th Dalai Lama returned to Tibet after being in exile and its being celebrated around the world.  Here in McLeod Ganj we had a stunning photographic exhibition and a parade around town led by horses (although my Tibetan friends grumbled that they weren’t using Tibetan saddles: I’m not the only pedant in the world, thank goodness) and we were all given a beautiful replica of the 13^th Dalai Lama’s Tibetan Proclamation of Independence; and tonight is a flag raising ceremony and a gig – music – hooray!

This morning on the Kora they were raising hundreds of new prayer flags at a ceremony in the sun.  Colourful, cheerful, convivial, peaceful with chanting, bells, drums and the long trumpet things that sound so magnificent.  We were given hot butter tea and little plates of sweet rice with nuts and raisins.

And I’m sorry but I need to tell it as it is, you don’t get a sanitised version.  There was another self-immolation this morning, in Kathmandu, presumably because if you self-immolate in Tibet the Chinese arrest your friends and family, and have been known to dish out the death sentence for “inciting” suicide.  And we've just heard that the 100th one in Tibet happened a few days ago - a 37 year old monk called Lobsang Namgyal.