the food here is - mostly - excellent and cheap. You can eat momos - a tibetan staple - which are little bite-size parcels of minced meat or veg wrapped in a sort of pasta, a bit along the lines of raviolli but fatter and bigger. You get a plateful of steamed or fried momos, with something to dip them in - maybe soy sauce. Or you can get momos in soup - a thin soup with loads of lovely fresh veg. all delicious! and all for about 80p or so.
thugpa and tentup are both filling soups with either noodles or flat pasta squares - again lots of lovely fresh veg, but can also have meat. There's lovely chappatis with an omlette or jam depending on your mood, and you can get delicious pancakes with all sorts of gorgeous toppings. And for the chocaholics, I've discovered a tiny cafe run by Sangmo who makes choc cakes which are just out of this world!
Sangmo (who owns a local cafe) has to move out of her room to look after her grandmother for a couple of months and wants to let it to me for 200 rupees a day (£2.25). Tempting!
McLeoud Ganj is a lovely cheerful laid back place with streets chokka with stalls selling lovely things, all surrounded by mountains and pine trees, prayer flags strung everywhere. I feel very at home here and am gradually meeting some of the movers and shakers in their world of campaigning to free their country. Yesterday I looked into the eyes of a former hunger striker as he told me his story. He is young, intelligent, articulate, passionate - he will do whatever it takes to free his country. The indian police intervened on the 20th day of his hunger strike and he minds. He was ready to go all the way.
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